Thermostat Options for EWC-ST Series Control Panels

[John B.]

Sir,

Most zone systems "default" all dampers open during idle periods. The reason for this logic is because there may be another device tied into the duct-work. maybe a whole house humidifier, HRV or a de-humidifier, that is not interlocked into the zone system. If the zone system closed all the dampers during idle periods. These devices would not be able to function.

Some damper motors are "spring open/power close" type, so they are being powered only to close! Others are "power open/power close" type, so they are being powered continuously. However, the current ND & URD dampers (MA-ND5 motors) de-energize all by themselves when they reach full open or close position. The LED's then illuminate and draw only 26 Milli-Amp. Very low power consumption and beautiful bright LED's to indicate damper position. Why would anyone buy anything else?

So there is little concern over motor life expectancy and they are warranted for 5 years. Life expectancy is 15 - 25 years.
I have attached the Submittal sheet files for both products.

John

[Robb]

I wanted to post up my experience getting my EWC-ST-2D Control board to work with Emerson ST55 WiFi Thermostats. I got the new TStats on sale ($80 a piece) and had a budget to get this all working.

My Existing Tstats were 5/2 programmable and had separate O and B wires. I realized that the newer ones had a combined O/B that would not work naively with the existing control board. I was told I needed a NCM-300 board or a MCS-DXB Selector switch. Neither of these were an option due to budget.

Looking at Page 3 figure 3 HERE https://ewccontrols.com/acrobat/090375a0115.pdf You can see that the MCS-DXB Switch is a SPDT switch and an SPST Switch. I bought a SPDT Switch form Home Depot for $5 and wired up for the Heat/Off/Cool. I decided not to wire up a SPST switch for the fan as I wired that to the Zone 1 TStat as described below

Since I had a 6 conducted wire For my original Zone 1 and 4 wire to one 2, I now had enough spares for a C wire to both. I also connected up the G wire on my Zone 1 Tstat to be able to control the Fan On/Auto through the T-Stat.

Everything works great, C wire is providing power. I have the 3-way switch mounted on the control box and it work great for the summer/winter changeover. I will mention, to have the C wire powered - the system must be on Heat or Cool from this switch, however the T-stats can be set to "off" during the shoulder seasons. I later wired my Normally Closed high level switch inline with R1 and my way switch to break the contact and shut the system down if my condensate pump fails (Used in summer for condensate and winter for Humidifier drain)

Hope this helps someone that is considering a less expensive solution.

NOTE - this would probably not be helpful in areas where heating/cooling need to change on a regular basis. I am based in New England and having to flip a switch once a season isn't an issue for me.

NOTE 2: Image was captured before wiring NC switch inline with R1 and landing G

[Steven W.]

If you are looking for a Thermostat for the master zone on your ST-2E / ST-3E zone boards here is a list of Thermostats that have the separate "O" and "B" connections that you are going to need for the master zone. Remember the ST series boards are master/slave (Winter/Summer manual changeover) so you are going to need these two connections on your zone 1 thermostat for your board to work correctly.

FYI
When you are programming the EWT-601-2 and EWT-725 Thermostats for the ST-2/3E Boards program them to Heat/Cool not Heat Pump. The Heat Pump setting will not work for the ST-2/3E Boards.


EWC Thermostats
EWT-601-2 – None Programmable
EWT-725 - Programmable


PRO 1 Thermostats
T601-2 – None Programmable
T725 - Programmable


Steven R. Weisneck
Technical Engineer
Tel: (732) 446-3110 Ext. #461
www.ewccontrols.com
sweisneck@ewccontrols.com

[crappytree]

I wanted to post up my experience getting my EWC-ST-2D Control board to work with Emerson ST55 WiFi Thermostats. I got the new TStats on sale ($80 a piece) and had a budget to get this all working.

My Existing Tstats were 5/2 programmable and had separate O and B wires. I realized that the newer ones had a combined O/B that would not work naively with the existing control board. I was told I needed a NCM-300 board or a MCS-DXB Selector switch. Neither of these were an option due to budget.

Looking at Page 3 figure 3 HERE https://ewccontrols.com/acrobat/090375a0115.pdf You can see that the MCS-DXB Switch is a SPDT switch and an SPST Switch. I bought a SPDT Switch form Home Depot for $5 and wired up for the Heat/Off/Cool. I decided not to wire up a SPST switch for the fan as I wired that to the Zone 1 TStat as described below

Since I had a 6 conducted wire For my original Zone 1 and 4 wire to one 2, I now had enough spares for a C wire to both. I also connected up the G wire on my Zone 1 Tstat to be able to control the Fan On/Auto through the T-Stat.

Everything works great, C wire is providing power. I have the 3-way switch mounted on the control box and it work great for the summer/winter changeover. I will mention, to have the C wire powered - the system must be on Heat or Cool from this switch, however the T-stats can be set to "off" during the shoulder seasons. I later wired my Normally Closed high level switch inline with R1 and my way switch to break the contact and shut the system down if my condensate pump fails (Used in summer for condensate and winter for Humidifier drain)

Hope this helps someone that is considering a less expensive solution.

NOTE - this would probably not be helpful in areas where heating/cooling need to change on a regular basis. I am based in New England and having to flip a switch once a season isn't an issue for me.

NOTE 2: Image was captured before wiring NC switch inline with R1 and landing G

Hi Robb, would you mind sharing image the NC switch inline with R1 and landing G? I live in New England as well, and would like to know if this is something I also need to do, if I wire a 3-way switch to the O B wires.

[badoxi3955]

Quelles sont les options de thermostat recommandées pour les panneaux de commande de la série EWC-ST, et comment ces options peuvent-elles optimiser la gestion du chauffage et de la climatisation dans un système résidentiel ? n'hésiter pas a aller voir mon casino en ligne c'est le meilleure d'Europe ahahah il est vraiment bien je me suis super bien amuser dessus et surtout j'ai ganger beaucoup d'argent grace au jeux qu'il propose alors si vous avez du temps n'hesiter pas a aller voir https://parier-online.fr/

[NalariDan]

Hi - I am replacing two old Honeywell Chronotherm III's, with Resideo RTH7560E's, attached to an EWC-ST-2E control board.

I replaced Zone 2 (only three wires needed to be changed), and it functioned normally.

Then I replaced Zone 1 following Resideo's instructions (they told me it should be compatible) and Zone 1 works, but now Zone 2 will not work.

The original Zone 1 wires to the thermostat were R, Rc, C, W1, Y1, O, B, G. I wired these to the new thermostat R to R, Rc to Rc, W1 to W2, O to O/B, C to C, G to G, and Y to Y. And they told me to tape up B and leave it unused. I was concerned about this but they said it should work.
Unfortunately it does not.

Anyone have any suggestions?

[NalariDan]

I see from reading through earlier in the thread that TH4110 series should work with ST series boards. I see from the installation manual for TH4110 that it has all the wire connections needed. The manual seems to think O and B are only for heat pumps - if I just connect the wires, will it work with the ST board? It can be here tomorrow morning from Amazon and its not an expensive thermostat, so I will roll the dice and give it a shot!